Introduction to the Citarum River

The Citarum River begins at the foot of the Tangkuban Perahu volcano in the mountains of Java, Indonesia. Known locally as the “Cradle of the Citarum,” the river stretches about 300 km through Java before emptying into the sea east of Jakarta. Once a modest stream, it quickly becomes a vital waterway for farmers and local communities.

Plastic Pollution

As the river passes through densely populated cities, it transforms into a conduit for massive amounts of rubbish. In many sections the blue water is replaced by white plastic, and Indonesia’s under‑developed waste‑treatment system has turned rivers into “open rubbish bins.” Fishermen now haul bottles instead of fish, and a 23‑year‑old named Rudy spends nine hours each day collecting debris for a recycling cooperative. Thousands of plastic pieces accumulate in mangrove roots, contributing to the nation’s estimate that Indonesian rivers dump 200,000 tons of plastic into the sea each year.

Chemical Pollution and Health Concerns

Beyond visible trash, the Citarum suffers from chemical contamination that is far more dangerous. Villages along the river host numerous textile factories, and residents rely on wells fed by the river for daily needs. Noa, a 42‑year‑old mother of a quarter‑young population, draws water for her family; her son Yuda frequently falls ill after finishing medication. Although epidemiological studies are lacking, the presence of hazardous chemicals raises serious concerns for children’s health.

Textile Industry Investigation

Denny Runtunan, who has led the region’s only environmental association for 17 years, has focused on textile‑related pollution. Seventy‑five percent of Indonesia’s textile production is exported, mainly to the United States and Europe, with the Gistex Group identified as one of the largest exporters. A Gistex factory runs 1,000 machines around the clock, producing nearly three million meters of polyester fabric each month and employing 4,500 workers.

The plant’s wastewater treatment relies on large settling tanks measuring 50 m × 100 m × 6 m. Water usage is about 200 cubic meters per hour (over 3,300 L/hour). Daily testing covers only five parameters—pH, turbidity, color, suspended solids, and COD—while international standards require at least 31. Heavy metals such as chromium and lead are not part of the routine checks. A factory representative described the treated water as “not harmful” but unsuitable for drinking without further filtration, and an “itchy hand test” was used as a visual safety control.

Investigators also discovered a concealed white pipeline dumping plant waste directly into the Citarum, hidden under foliage and releasing a film of white foam.

Water and Rice Analysis

Samples of river water and nearby rice were collected for laboratory testing. Lensing, a world leader in artificial fiber, also discharges waste into the river, with an overflow channel located 300 m from the factory, near fields and houses, emitting a strong, suffocating smell and a yellow‑black flow of waste.

Chemist Professor Lego and Professor Sunardi of Padjadjaran University analyzed the samples for heavy metals—including arsenic, mercury, cadmium, and lead—and other chemicals. Dr. Sinardi reported total chromium at 28.084 mg/kg and lead at 29.03 mg/kg in rice plants, far above the Indonesian standard of 0.25 mg/kg for lead. Lead exposure threatens the nervous system and can cause intellectual disability in children. Wastewater from textile factories contained lead at 1.5 times the international limit, while Lensing’s discharge showed lead 3.5 times higher and sulfate at 7,087 mg/L—almost ten times global recommendations—raising the risk of diarrhea, especially among children. The contaminated rice is sold throughout Indonesia.

Hair Analysis for Pollutants

To assess personal exposure, hair samples were collected from women and children in a riverside village. Professor Bryce Appenzeller of the Luxembourg Health Institute received hair from ten children aged 12 months to 14 years, and later from 45 children living near textile factories, to be included in a new scientific study on Indonesian pollutant exposure.

Government and Corporate Responses

Denny’s association’s discovery of a hidden overflow channel marked a symbolic victory. However, 90 % of the roughly 500 textile factories along the Citarum lack high‑performance wastewater treatment. Investigations linked several factories to major clothing brands: Panasia Group (a subcontractor for H&M and Uniqlo) showed high levels of nonylphenol, a hormone disruptor; Gistex, supplying Uniqlo, exhibited high lead; Lensing, supplying Gap, Asos, Marks & Spencer, Uniqlo, and H&M, recorded record sulfate levels.

H&M Indonesia’s director acknowledged the environmental issues and promised a sustainability team review, followed by a written response three weeks later. Uniqlo also replied to the allegations. Egis Ismi, representing the Indonesian textile lobby (API), argued that respecting the environment benefits business and claimed treated water could be used for drinking and irrigation, even stating he would irrigate his own fields with it. He expressed sadness for the country but cited a lack of solutions, warning that in 50 years people might become “mutants” due to pollution. A Ministry of Environment official expressed surprise at the nonylphenol findings (772 µg/L) and pledged to take new samples, revise permits, guidelines, and parameters if confirmed.

Potential Solutions and Future Outlook

Hendra Indra Wian, head of a large textile factory bearing an international eco‑label, invested over one million euros in greener production. The facility operates 12 wastewater‑treatment stages, producing water that meets drinking‑water standards, though its fabrics cost about 10 % more than competitors’. The challenge remains to sustain clothing production along the Citarum while protecting residents’ health. Indonesian textile output is projected to increase by 75 % by 2030, underscoring the urgency for major clothing brands to address the crisis and for stricter government standards to protect the river’s ecosystem and its people.