Women Carrying Viterbo’s Grande Machina: Tradition Meets Inclusion

Stella, a 13-year-old, dreams of becoming the first woman to carry the Grande Machina through Viterbo, Italy. This 30-meter-high, 5,000-kilogram contraption is carried annually by 100 men in a grand procession honoring Santa Rosa. While Stella's cousin Mateo will one day join the "Fakini de Santa Rosa" (porters), tradition currently excludes Stella. The parade is recognized as intangible cultural heritage by UNESCO, prompting questions about whether traditions should adapt to changing times.

The Tradition of Santa Rosa

Every September 3rd, Stella, along with many others, eagerly awaits the Grande Machina. Mateo, as a drummer, announces its arrival. This event is the highlight of the year in Viterbo, a city 80 km north of Rome, where residents celebrate their heritage. Stella's father, Davidid, is one of the Machina porters and a hero to her. The parade is deeply intertwined with the identity of Viterbo's people.

Aspiring porters are recruited from "mini machina" clubs, where children train with smaller versions of the structure. Viterbo has three such clubs, and in 2023, the historic city center club became the first and only one to admit girls. Stella was the first girl accepted, a moment her father found deeply moving, recalling his own childhood memories of watching his father carry the Machina. He hopes that over time, female participation will become normalized.

The Story of Santa Rosa

Santa Rosa, or St. Rose, lived in Viterbo during the 13th century. She was known for her deep devotion and openly preached against injustice, leading to her banishment from Viterbo. She died at just 17 from a rare illness. Stories of her miracles spread, reaching the Pope. A year and a half after her burial, her body was exhumed and found to be remarkably well-preserved. The grand procession commemorates the annual return of her body to the city. The steep climb to the sanctuary is the most emotional part, symbolizing Rosa's homecoming. Those chosen to carry the structure during this demanding stage are considered to have proven themselves.

Stella's Aspiration and Family Support

Stella's mother encourages her dream, emphasizing that "there are no limits" except one's own strength. While acknowledging that men generally possess greater physical strength, she believes that if Santa Rosa chooses a girl, then it should be possible.

Resistance to Change

Mateo's mother, Rosita (named after Santa Rosa), firmly believes in preserving tradition. She argues that a centuries-old practice can only survive if it remains unchanged, stating that the Machina has always been carried by men. She doubts women could pass the rigorous strength test, which involves carrying about 150 kg for three 100-meter laps.

Advocating for Inclusion

Johnny Bayo, chairman of the mini machina club that admits girls, is a Grande Machina porter himself. He was instrumental in allowing Stella to join. He believes it's important for girls to participate in the mini machina and hopes that one day women will also carry the Grande Machina, though he acknowledges it's a slow process. He observes that girls are often more concentrated and determined than boys during training.

Johnny recalls the "war" on social media when girls were first admitted, with some accusing them of "destroying tradition." However, he sees it as a "breath of fresh air" and a way to foster cohesion among children from diverse backgrounds.

The Mini Machina Parade

Weeks before the main parade, the Grande Machina is displayed in Viterbo's central square. Mateo, while supportive of Stella, finds it hard to imagine a woman carrying it, citing tradition. However, he believes that if a woman were to join the men, perspectives might change. Stella remains determined, vowing to try even if it takes multiple attempts. She believes Santa Rosa would approve of a female porter.

During a press conference, Johnny highlights the success of the mini machina clubs, noting that over 70% of current porters come from these clubs. He proudly announces that for the first time, nine girls were given the opportunity to carry the mini machina up the ascent to the chapel, a great honor.

On the day of the mini machina parade, Stella's grandmother, Onella, accompanies her. Onella reflects on how unthinkable it would have been for a girl to participate in her youth, despite her own desire to do so.

The 57th Mini Machina Parade features 195 porters, including young women who are "in no way inferior to their male counterparts." The mini machina, weighing about 500 kg, is carried along a 1.6 km route with 14 stages. The most crucial stretch is the climb to Santa Rosa's chapel, symbolizing the saint's homecoming. Stella, part of the final group, shoulders the mini machina, experiencing an overwhelming emotion that she describes as "madness."