Beta-Alanine vs Creatine for Climbers: Benefits & Dosage

This article explores the benefits and considerations of two popular dietary supplements: beta-alanine and creatine, particularly in the context of physical performance and general health.

Beta-Alanine for Enhanced Endurance

The author, an avid rock climber, began experimenting with beta-alanine to improve endurance, especially to combat forearm fatigue common in climbing. Unlike creatine, which can lead to water retention and weight gain—undesirable for climbers who need to maintain a low body weight relative to finger strength—beta-alanine offered a potential alternative.

Research Findings

Studies, including one involving 15 elite climbers, have investigated beta-alanine's effects. Participants took 4 grams of beta-alanine daily for four weeks or a placebo. The results were significant:

• Longer Traverse Performance: The beta-alanine group showed a 57% longer duration before falling during traverses, compared to a 19% improvement in the placebo group. This translated to an additional 21 seconds of improvement beyond the placebo effect.
• Increased Moves Completed: In longer traverses (1-2 minutes), the beta-alanine group completed 10 more moves, whereas the placebo group only saw a four-move improvement due to training alone.

These improvements typically become noticeable after two to three weeks of consistent use. The author personally experienced a "phase shift" in performance around two and a half weeks into taking the supplement, which was even noticed by his coaches. While other factors like training, isometrics, and collagen supplementation also contribute, the impact of beta-alanine seemed substantial.

Dosage and Side Effects

The author takes 6.4 grams of beta-alanine daily, which amounts to eight pills of Thorne Beta-Alanine SR (sustained release). The sustained-release formulation is crucial for minimizing a common side effect called paresthesia, which manifests as a tingling sensation in the body, similar to a niacin flush or a limb "falling asleep."

Mechanism of Action

Beta-alanine is believed to work by increasing muscular carnosine saturation, though the author notes this is a simplified explanation.

Collagen and Vitamin C for Finger Strength

In addition to beta-alanine, the author incorporates collagen peptides with vitamin C before training. This combination, specifically Momentous collagen peptides with 500-1000 mg of vitamin C (research suggests as little as 50 mg can be effective), is used to boost collagen production in the fingers, which is vital for finger strength in climbing. The type of collagen matters, with "high-end" collagen preferred to avoid heavy metal contamination often found in bone-derived collagen.

The Importance of Supplement Quality: A Public Service Announcement

The discussion extended to the broader issue of supplement quality and contamination. The author highlighted psyllium husks as an example. While beneficial for fiber intake and glycemic control, many common brands contain significant levels of heavy metals and contaminants. Brands like Yerba Prima and Organic India were cited as having good testing results. A doctor jokingly illustrated the severity of the issue by stating that some generic brands might be "2% fiber and 98% arsenic," emphasizing the need for careful selection, especially for daily supplements.

Another example of contamination mentioned was microplastics in seaweed chips, which are prevalent due to ocean pollution.

Creatine: Benefits, Drawbacks, and Innovations

Creatine, while highly effective for strength and muscle gain, presents specific challenges for climbers due to its tendency to cause water retention and weight gain. The author personally avoids it for climbing but acknowledges its benefits for other forms of training, such as weightlifting.

Creatine Side Effects

• Gastrointestinal (GI) Issues: Overdosing on creatine can lead to significant GI distress. The author shared a cautionary tale about combining creatine with a double espresso and MCT oil before an airport trip, leading to a "disaster potential."
• Muscle Cramps: High doses, such as 10 grams per day, can cause severe muscle cramps in hands and feet. Reducing the dosage to 5 grams typically alleviates this issue.

Innovative Creatine Delivery

For individuals who experience stomach upset with traditional creatine, a delayed-release formulation called Body Tech Elite Creatine Beadlet with Novaspheres technology was mentioned. This product, which features tiny beads inside the capsules, is designed for slow release, preventing immediate GI issues. The author found this to be the only creatine product he could tolerate without stomach problems.

The author also noted that when traveling, he often uses Momentous brand supplements due to their rigorous quality checks, mixing them with water and consuming them slowly over several hours to avoid discomfort.