Non-Alcoholic Wine as Solution to Declining European Vineyards

Europeans are consuming less wine, leading to an increase in vineyard uprooting. German winemakers, for instance, fear that 30% of their vineyards might disappear. This trend is already visible along the Main River near Schweinfurt, where vineyards are being cleared.

The Rise of Non-Alcoholic Wine

Non-alcoholic wine is emerging as a potential solution for winemakers facing declining sales. The process involves an additional step in winemaking to remove alcohol from conventionally produced wine. This innovation could attract a new target audience seeking different products.

Spanish Winemaker Ivan Alonzo Gil's Venture

In the Toro wine region of Castile-Leon, Spain, winemaker Ivan Alonzo Gil is preparing for a grape harvest. He relies on temporary workers, but finding qualified staff is challenging due to high demand. On this particular day, only five of the expected eight helpers arrive, making the harvest of ripe Malvasia grapes more arduous.

Ivan's vineyards feature over 80-year-old bush vines, some even exceeding 100 years, deeply rooted in sandy soil. The dense foliage protects the grapes from the sun. While he primarily grows dark grape varieties, today's harvest focuses on Malvasia, a white grape. These old vines yield fewer grapes but produce higher quality and concentration.

Ivan, who started his own winery in 2017, markets his wines under his own name both domestically and internationally. However, selling wine is becoming increasingly difficult. His winery is neither a discount provider nor a widely recognized brand, making it particularly vulnerable to the current sales decline. Inspired by the success of non-alcoholic beer—nearly one in ten beers in Germany is now non-alcoholic—Ivan sees potential in non-alcoholic wine.

The Toro region is known for its full-bodied, high-alcohol wines, a result of cool nights and hot, dry summer days. Ivan's winery, located near Toro, requires him to pump his wines three times a day in the initial weeks after harvest. Red grape must is stored in stainless steel tanks with pressed skins to achieve its deep red color. Temperature regulation during fermentation is crucial, with coal added to the tanks and liquid circulated to prevent overheating. Low-temperature fermentation helps extract subtle aromas and preserve aromatic qualities, resulting in fruitier wines.

Ivan learned winemaking from his grandfather and later worked at larger wineries before establishing his own business with family vineyards. After a few weeks, the wine is transferred to oak barrels for aging and to develop a barrique flavor, distinguishing his winery from industrial operations.

Ivan's decision to de-alcoholize some of his finished wines is seen as unusual by many traditional wine lovers, who view it as transforming wine into a "wine-based soft drink." However, others support modernizing traditional products to meet current demand. Ivan has partnered with a German company that is building a de-alcoholization facility in Spain. For testing, a small amount of his wine will be de-alcoholized in Germany.

German Winemaker Jurgen Dams and the Future of Vineyards

In Franconia, Germany, the number of wineries in Schweinfurt has dwindled from 13 to just one, owned by the Dams family. Winemaker Jurgen Dams is rushing to finish the harvest, taking advantage of a dry spell after recent rains. The steep slopes of the Main River, with a 40% gradient at the Petern vineyard, necessitate manual labor. Harvest workers from Romania have been assisting for years.

The future of these vineyards is uncertain due to decreasing profitability and the difficulty of attracting younger generations to the demanding work. Jurgen's son, Luca, initially pursued a career in insurance, but four years ago, he recognized the business potential of non-alcoholic wine. Despite his marketing background rather than winemaking, Luca's interest in de-alcoholization brought him back to the family winery.

To produce good non-alcoholic wine, high-quality alcoholic wine is essential as the base product; otherwise, it would taste like overly sweet grape juice. Jurgen advises Luca, who now enjoys working closely with his father. Luca initially de-alcoholized 10,000 liters from the family winery. Today, his company sells 300,000 bottles annually, sourcing base wines from external suppliers, though he hopes to use his father's wines again.

The grapes from the steep slopes are foot-crushed immediately after harvest, a gentle method that ensures a fine balance of aromas, fruit, and body in the wine. The ripeness of the grapes is crucial, with a target of 90 Oechsle for a dry Silvaner, aiming for around 12% alcohol content. This Silvaner is the winery's flagship wine.

Jurgen Dams has observed a significant decline in alcohol consumption in Germany, down 18% over the last 18 years. This crisis is forcing some winemakers to abandon their vineyards, leading to concerning consequences. Daniel Hestoa from the Bavarian State Institute for Viticulture has noted a dangerous trend: neglected vineyards. When grapes rot and vines are untended, pests and fungal diseases can spread to neighboring, well-maintained vineyards, posing a "mid-level disaster" for adjacent winemakers.

Clearing abandoned vineyards is a better solution. If the land is not too steep, a tractor can remove the vines, creating potential for greater biodiversity. For example, a state-owned plot where viticulture was unprofitable will be planted with a flower meadow. This change of landscape is important for tourism, a significant economic factor in Franconia, generating nearly €4 billion annually. Wine tourism is 15 times more profitable than wine sales alone, making the preservation of the cultural landscape vital.

Jurgen Dams himself cleared 3.5 hectares of steep slopes near his estate a few years ago because it was no longer financially viable. While winemaking involves strong emotions, financial stability is paramount. German winemakers anticipate that up to 30% of the country's vineyard acreage will be lost.

Luca Dams' Non-Alcoholic Wine Brand

Luca Dams' journey into non-alcoholic wine began four years ago at a party. A pregnant friend and other health-conscious friends inquired about non-alcoholic options, sparking an idea. He realized there was a gap in the market for a premium non-alcoholic wine. He ordered and tested existing products, concluding that a better brand was needed.

He initially sold 7,000 bottles of de-alcoholized wine through his online store. Sales have since grown to 300,000 bottles annually, and he now supplies wholesale customers and restaurants. Luca recently met with renowned chef Bernard Ryza in Wolfsburg to introduce his non-alcoholic wines. Ryza, a connoisseur of Franconian wines, acknowledges the growing demand for non-alcoholic alternatives in restaurants.

Luca's range includes three non-alcoholic sparkling wines, one white, and one red. He believes these products are new to the hotel, restaurant, and specialty retail sectors and need to be experienced. Chef Ryza and his wife, sommelier Celia Rutiga, tasted the non-alcoholic red wine, finding it lacked the typical "purine-like green bell pepper flavor" and the warmth, volume, and lingering finish that alcohol provides in white wine.

However, when paired with a saffron pumpkin risotto and a spicy curry soup, the non-alcoholic white wine performed well. It "holds its own," "captures the heat," and "asserts itself," complementing the sharpness of the curry. Restaurants are increasingly stocking non-alcoholic options to cater to guests who cannot or choose not to drink alcohol.

The De-alcoholization Process

Back in Spain, Ivan is serious about non-alcoholic wine. He is sending 10 bottles of his 2024 vintage red wine to a German company for de-alcoholization. He views this as an experiment, driven by curiosity and excitement rather than fear. If he likes the taste, he plans to launch an alcohol-free wine next year.

The wine arrives at a small de-alcoholization plant near Munich, run by food chemist Claudia Agaya. She and her colleague developed a process that includes aroma recovery, addressing winemakers' concerns about losing the identity and passion of their wines during de-alcoholization.

The process involves: 1. Vacuum distillation: Wine is drawn into a system where a vacuum is created. At around 28°C, alcohol is distilled out gently. 2. Aroma recovery: From one liter of 14% alcohol wine, 140 ml of pure alcohol is extracted, containing a wealth of aromas. A specialized process recovers these flavors, concentrating them significantly.

The cost of this process is between €1 and €1.50 per liter, making non-alcoholic wine more expensive. Historically, winemakers used poor-quality wines for de-alcoholization, but this has changed. Winemakers now understand that good base wine is crucial. Barrel aging, for instance, translates beautifully into the de-alcoholized product, compensating for the missing alcohol.

Ivan's Tasting Experience

Ivan's de-alcoholized wine bottles are ready, and Claudia Agaya informs her colleague in Valencia. Germany is a key market for non-alcoholic wine in the EU, with an estimated 1.5% market share. While Spain's consumption is lower, the market is growing.

Ivan drives to Valencia to visit a new alcohol-free wine facility that uses German aroma technology. He has been tasting various alcohol-free wines, noting differences between German and Spanish styles. The facility, still in its final completion phase, requires a minimum volume of 5,000 liters for de-alcoholization. Ivan produces around 20,000 liters annually, so he would need to start with a quarter of his production.

Pedro Garcia Navaro, the Spanish manager of the facility, explains that the plant is designed for premium, high-quality wines like Ivan's, which are produced with great attention to terroir and cellar work. Ivan is surprised by the size and modernity of the facility, having expected something smaller.

During the tasting, Ivan samples three versions of his de-alcoholized wine: one without aroma recovery and two with. He immediately sets aside the version without aroma, finding it less appealing. The versions with aroma recovery are more interesting. He recognizes his wine in the aroma-recovered versions, noting a "much more complete" mouthfeel than he imagined.

Ivan, who typically prefers alcoholic wines, finds the aroma-recovered version an "acceptable alternative" and is "absolutely thrilled." The years of research invested in the process have paid off, allowing winemakers to recognize their own wine after de-alcoholization. Convinced by the results, Ivan is determined to produce his first non-alcoholic wine next year, hoping to replicate the success of non-alcoholic beer in attracting new customers.